Etienne Bodet - Clos Durandière - Clos des Vaudelles 2023
Based in Montreuil-Bellay, south of Saumur, Etienne Bodet is establishing himself among the most promising young winemakers in the Loire Valley, thanks to a demanding and deeply personal approach to the terroirs of Saumurois. Heir to nine generations of winegrowers, he enriched his training with prestigious estates, notably with Sylvain Pataille in Burgundy, Pierre Gerbais in Champagne, and at Clos Rougeard, where he participated in the vinifications of the 2021 to 2023 vintages. Graduated in oenology in Reims, he created his own estate in 2020 around Clos Durandière, before selecting new plots with particularly unique geological characteristics. Clos des Vaudelles, integrated into the estate in 2023, is located only about a hundred meters from Clos Durandière but has a radically different geological identity. While the latter rests on hard Bathonian limestone, Clos des Vaudelles is distinguished by its gray Oxfordian marls, covered by a significant layer of clay. These Jurassic formations, relatively rare in Saumurois, constitute a fresh and deep terroir, particularly interesting for Cabernet Franc. Planted in 1972, this old vine plot produces a red wine of remarkable personality, where the depth of the matter is accompanied by freshness and precision characteristic of great Loire wines. With this cuvée, Etienne Bodet pursues his ambition to reveal unprecedented expressions of Saumur, privileging the geological singularity of each place rather than seeking a uniform style.
Clos des Vaudelles 2023 is made exclusively from Cabernet Franc, the emblematic grape variety of the great reds of Saumurois. The 2023 vintage was marked in the Loire Valley by a contrasting growing season, alternating hot periods, rainfall, and episodes of strong sanitary pressure, before favorable conditions for ripening at the end of summer. On the clayey and marly soils of Clos des Vaudelles, the natural water reserve of the terroir helps preserve the freshness of the grapes and promotes gradual ripening. The vines are managed according to organic and biodynamic practices, without certification claimed, with particularly meticulous work on pruning, debudding, and soil maintenance. Harvesting is done manually, with rigorous sorting in the vineyard, then a second selection upon arrival at the winery. Vinification favors indigenous yeasts and gentle extraction, without pigeage or systematic remontage, to preserve the finesse of Cabernet Franc and avoid any tannic harshness. A proportion of whole clusters may be kept depending on the maturity of the stems, bringing more aromatic complexity and relief to the structure. The wine then benefits from extended aging in oak barrels, followed by a period of refinement in tank and bottle, allowing the matter to gain harmony without losing its natural freshness. This patient approach gives birth to a Saumur red of great depth, whose precision and texture faithfully reflect the singularity of the Oxfordian marls.
Clos des Vaudelles 2023 reveals a deep and luminous ruby robe, with still intense garnet reflections. Its expressive bouquet opens with aromas of ripe raspberry, black cherry, and fresh blackcurrant, accompanied by floral nuances of violet and peony. On aeration, delicate notes of graphite, pepper, licorice, and lightly toasted wood enrich this aromatic palette, bringing subtle complexity without masking the purity of the fruit. On the palate, the attack is ample and vinous, with generous matter that retains a remarkable sensation of freshness. The fine and tight tannins outline a precise structure, while the texture gradually gains depth and velvety softness. Flavors of red and black fruits extend into nuances of sweet spices, violet, and wet stone, revealing a Cabernet Franc both concentrated and elegant. The finish, long and persistent, is distinguished by an almost saline mineral sensation, accompanied by fine bitters that bring relief and complexity to the whole. Already seductive after sufficient aeration, this Saumur has excellent aging potential, which will allow it to gradually develop notes of undergrowth, blond tobacco, and truffle. It will ideally accompany roasted pigeon, a rack of lamb, veal fillet with morels, duck breast, grilled ribeye steak, or sautéed wild mushrooms.
Grape variety: 100% Cabernet Franc
