Domaine de Juchepie - Coteaux du Layon Faye - Churelles 1997
Nearly thirty years after its harvest, Les Churelles 1997 bears witness to the extraordinary aging potential of the great sweet Chenins from the Layon valley. In Faye-d'Anjou, on the south and southwest-facing slopes, Eddy and Mileine Oosterlinck began in 1986 to revive a small vineyard whose potential they had discovered a few years earlier. This Belgian couple, who came to viticulture out of passion, gradually built the Domaine de Juchepie around a simple conviction: the quality of a wine is first decided in the vineyard. From 1994, they adopted the principles of organic farming, at a time when this approach was still little widespread in the Anjou vineyard. Their work focuses particularly on old Chenin vines, a grape variety capable of retaining remarkable acidity even when the grapes reach high sugar concentrations. Les Churelles stands out for its geological origin, a rhyolite terroir, an ancient volcanic rock resting on Carboniferous formations, which contrasts with the schists of the neighboring Quarts. This uniqueness gives rise to sweet wines whose freshness and finesse are essential qualities, particularly perceptible after several decades in the bottle.
The 1997 vintage belongs to an important period in the history of the estate, when Eddy and Mileine Oosterlinck were refining their knowledge of the different plots and developing their first great Chenin selections. In the Layon, this year allowed the production of beautiful late harvest wines, whose concentration was accompanied by acidity favorable to their preservation. Les Churelles comes from grapes harvested at advanced maturity, through successive passes in the vineyards, to select the bunches presenting the best balance between richness and freshness. The natural concentration, favored notably by the development of botrytis, or noble rot, is one of the foundations of these great sweet white wines from Anjou. The estate's work relies on particularly slow pressing in a vertical press, allowing the gradual extraction of concentrated juices without damaging the harvest. Fermentations in oak barrels, without yeast addition or chaptalization, then respect the character of the grape and the particularities of its terroir. With nearly three decades of hindsight, this 1997 presents a particular interest for lovers of old vintages, offering the opportunity to discover a Chenin that has reached a stage of maturity that few white wines can achieve with such distinction.
At this age, Les Churelles 1997 can reveal a deep golden robe, with amber nuances, bearing witness to its slow evolution in the bottle. Its aromatic register should favor candied fruits, quince, dried apricot, and orange peel, accompanied by notes of honey, beeswax, and saffron. Upon aeration, hints of black tea, dried fruits, and sweet spices can enrich the bouquet, depending on the bottle's storage conditions. On the palate, the richness of the sweet Chenin finds its counterpoint in a natural acidity which remains one of the great strengths of Layon wines, bringing liveliness to a texture that has become more integrated over time. The finish can maintain remarkable persistence, blending candied citrus, spices, and delicate bitters that avoid any sensation of heaviness. Such a wine deserves attentive tasting, alone or accompanied by semi-cooked foie gras, poultry with sweet spices, a blue-veined cheese, or a thin apricot tart, favoring preparations that respect its subtlety. Now at an advanced age, this 1997 will benefit from being opened with care, without systematic decanting, in order to preserve the delicate aromas that several decades of aging have developed.
Grape variety: 100% Chenin Blanc
