Champagne Dhondt Grellet - Roc Solare - Extra Brut 2022
Located in Flavigny, in the heart of the Côte des Blancs, Champagne Dhondt-Grellet is one of the estates that has deeply marked the new generation of Champagne producers. Founded in 1986 by Éric Dhondt and Édith Grellet, the estate took on a new dimension with Adrien Dhondt, who returned to the family estate in the early 2010s. His approach is inspired as much by Champagne precision as by the Burgundian culture of the place, with wines conceived as expressions of terroir before being blending cuvées. The estate works a mosaic of vineyards located between Côte des Blancs, Cramant, Cuis, Avenay-Val-d’Or, and Coteaux du Sézannais, with particular attention paid to Chardonnay. Roc Solare occupies a unique place in this range, as it opens a sunnier, more textured, and more southern window in the very taut universe of Dhondt-Grellet. This Extra Brut cuvée based on the 2022 vintage highlights a Champagne of flint, maturity, and energy, with the sensation of a wine built on relief rather than simple freshness. It is aimed at enthusiasts seeking a vibrant, precise grower’s Champagne, but endowed with a fleshier body than the most crystalline whites of whites.
Roc Solare comes from the Coteaux du Sézannais, notably from Barbonne-Fayel and Fontaine-Denis, on terroirs marked by flint pebbles. This origin explains much of the wine’s personality: the Sézannais brings more warmth and maturity than the Côte des Blancs, while the flint imparts a smoky tension, mineral energy, and a more incisive finish. The cuvée rests on a 2022 base complemented by the estate’s perpetual reserve, an essential element to bring depth, continuity, and aromatic complexity. The blend highlights Chardonnay, complemented by a portion of Pinot Noir, in a style that combines chalky brightness, ripe fruit, and more vinous nuances. Available information indicates bottling in May 2023, disgorgement in December 2025, and a very low dosage, around 1.5 g/L, which leaves the wine in a clear and extra-brut expression. The style does not seek leanness: the 2022 base gives body, sun, and breadth, while the perpetual reserve and flint terroir provide a deeper foundation. Roc Solare thus stands out by an assumed maturity, but always contained by the saline energy that runs through Adrien Dhondt’s best Champagnes.
The robe appears golden, luminous, with fine effervescence and a visual presence already quite vinous. The nose evokes yellow apple, ripe lemon, pear, white peach, and some juicier yellow fruits, before sliding towards notes of dried flower, fresh hazelnut, warm stone, and light smoke. On the palate, the wine has a fleshier texture than initially taut, then the energy of the flint gradually tightens the matter and gives rhythm to the tasting. The bubbles remain precise, enveloping, without masking the natural volume of the cuvée. The finish prolongs nuances of candied citrus, white fruits, fine bitters, and salinity, with a persistence that clearly calls for food. This Champagne will accompany with great accuracy roasted langoustines, turbot with beurre blanc, farm poultry with mushrooms, morel risotto, seared scallops, or an aged Comté cheese. Served around 10 to 12°C in a fairly large glass, it will gain depth over aeration and can be kept for several years to develop spicier, toasted, and slightly honeyed notes.
Grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir