Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe - Télégramme 2023
The Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the emblematic names of Châteauneuf du Pape, established for more than a century on the mythical plateau of La Crau. This unique terroir, made up of rolled pebbles resting on deep red clays, gives rise to wines of great energy, driven by a rare mineral tension in the appellation. The Brunier family, guardians of this heritage for six generations, perpetuate a viticulture of respect and precision here, favoring low yields, just ripeness, and a fine reading of the natural balances of the vintage. Télégramme, the estate's second wine, is nonetheless a cuvée of great character, conceived as a younger, more accessible, and more indulgent interpretation of the Vieux Télégraphe style. The 2023 vintage, bright and homogeneous, offers an expression of great fruity purity, supported by the natural depth of La Crau and the finesse of extraction typical of the house.
Télégramme 2023 is mainly made from Grenache complemented by Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Cinsault, coming from younger vines or parcel selections intended to express a more immediate style. The harvest is manual, with a strict sorting that preserves the aromatic quality of the berries. Vinification relies on fermentations in concrete vats, with measured extraction work to maintain freshness, brightness, and suppleness. Aging then takes place in vats and large-capacity casks, to respect the purity of the fruit without excessive oak addition. The 2023 vintage is distinguished by its natural balance between ripeness and tension, producing a juicy, vibrant, indulgent wine but with a true foundation. Télégramme thus remains the ideal entry point into the world of Vieux Télégraphe, offering an authentic signature while revealing itself earlier than the grand vin.
On tasting, Télégramme 2023 shows a bright ruby robe with purple reflections. The nose opens with aromas of fresh raspberry, juicy cherry, and wild strawberry, joined by notes of garrigue, violet, licorice, and a spicy touch characteristic of La Crau. On the palate, the attack is ample and charming, supported by crunchy fruit and a silky texture. Grenache dominates with its softness and brightness, while Mourvèdre brings depth and structure, balanced by the aromatic freshness of Syrah. The finish is long, elegant, crossed by notes of sweet pepper, dried herbs, and a saline return that marks the terroir of rolled pebbles. At the table, Télégramme 2023 ideally accompanies a confit lamb shoulder, a grilled beef cut, a gardianne de taureau, a Provençal ratatouille, or a slightly aged soft cheese.
Grape varieties: approximately 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah, 4% Cinsault
