Yjar - Telmo Rodríguez 2020
In Rioja Alavesa, Yjar represents one of the most ambitious projects by Telmo Rodríguez and Pablo Eguzkiza, built around a particularly demanding parcel-by-parcel reading of the vineyard landscape of the Sierra de Toloño. The wine comes from a small group of old vines located near Labastida, on high-altitude slopes where marl and limestone soils play an essential role in its identity. The parcels, grown as bush vines, bring together several traditional grape varieties interplanted rather than a modern varietal organization by variety. Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, Grand Noir, and Rojal thus contribute to an expression that seeks more to translate a place than the isolated personality of a single grape variety. This philosophy extends the work carried out for several decades by Telmo Rodríguez to rediscover the great historic Spanish terroirs and restore their plant heritage. Yjar also holds a special place in the recent history of Spanish wines by having integrated the international circuit of La Place de Bordeaux. The 2020 vintage delivers a deep and refined interpretation of this limestone terroir, with remarkable tension behind the ripeness of the fruit.
The grapes are hand-harvested from old vines planted at high altitude, in an environment where nighttime freshness slows maturation and favors the preservation of acidity. Fermentation is spontaneous, with indigenous yeasts, and takes place in open wooden containers. The aging then continues for about thirty months between large casks and barrels, a significant duration intended to refine the structure rather than impose a woody expression. Tempranillo forms the base of the wine's identity, while Graciano and Garnacha respectively bring tension, spices, and suppleness. Grand Noir and Rojal, present in the old interplantings, contribute to the complexity of the whole without their respective proportions being precisely communicated. The 2020 vintage shows significant concentration but retains a particularly fine touch, supported by powdery tannins and a persistent limestone framework. The whole thus possesses the necessary depth to evolve over several decades while maintaining remarkable precision.
The color shows a dark and deep ruby, still marked by violet nuances. The nose combines blackberry, blueberry, and raspberry with a floral violet expression, gradually complemented by white pepper and dried herbs. On aeration, nuances of fine leather, graphite, fresh earth, and spices appear, giving the bouquet a deeper dimension. The palate is dense but very slender, with fine and chalky tannins structuring the wine without masking the brightness of the fruit. A persistent freshness crosses the mid-palate and accentuates the mineral sensation linked to the limestone terroirs. The finish is long and precise, mixing black fruits, flowers, spices, and a touch of graphite. Yjar 2020 will accompany roasted lamb, suckling pig, pigeon, a rib of beef, or game accompanied by wild mushrooms.
Grape varieties: Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, Grand Noir, Rojal
