Domaine Sylvain PATAILLE - Bourgogne Aligoté - Le Charme aux Prêtres 2023
In Marsannay-la-Côte, Sylvain Pataille has greatly contributed to the contemporary recognition of terroirs long overshadowed by the most prestigious appellations of the Côte de Nuits. A trained oenologist, he founded his estate in 1999 with an initial leased plot, before gradually building a vineyard rich in old vines and distinct lieux-dits. His approach is based on careful observation of soils, manual harvesting, and low-intervention vinifications aimed at preserving the identity of each parcel. Organic and biodynamic farming accompany this precise work, with adapted plowing and limited use of inputs. Sylvain Pataille has also established himself as one of the most convincing defenders of golden aligoté, a Burgundian grape variety whose depth and ability to express geological nuances he reveals. His single-parcel cuvées demonstrate that aligoté can reach true complexity when coming from old vines and benefiting from patient aging. The Charme aux Prêtres 2023 belongs to this exclusive collection, in a style that is both dense, taut, and deeply mineral.
The cuvée comes from a Marsannay parcel exposed to the south and southwest, located at nearly 300 meters altitude. The aligoté vines, planted in 1949, root in a shallow soil where red clays cover a limestone bedrock, associated with fossil-rich marls. This location and the advanced age of the vines favor low yields, regular ripening, and natural concentration of the grapes. The harvest is handpicked, then whole clusters undergo gentle vertical pressing. Fermentation starts with indigenous yeasts, without enzymes, before racking during fermentation. The wine then undergoes a long aging of twelve to eighteen months in barrels that have already contained several wines, to develop its texture without imposing a dominant woody presence. The 2023 vintage combines fruit ripeness with precise acidity, giving this aligoté an unusual breadth without compromising its energy.
The pale yellow robe shows golden reflections and beautiful brightness. The nose opens on fresh pear, citron, and yellow apple, then reveals hints of verbena, white flowers, and soft spices. Aeration reveals a deeper dimension, marked by wet chalk, smoky stone, and a slight note of gingerbread. The palate begins with a straight attack, supported by lively acidity and a more generous body than the aromatic delicacy suggests. A finely creamy texture envelops ripe citrus, while a clear salinity and fine bitterness structure the mid-palate. The finish is distinguished by its length, iodized character, and persistence on candied lemon, white pepper, and limestone rock. This Bourgogne Aligoté will accompany oysters, langoustines, pike quenelles, fish with beurre blanc, Burgundy snails, or an aged goat cheese.
Grape variety: 100% Aligoté
